On the black sand a child ran, face turned upwards as he chased a butterfly.
Oblivious to the encroachment of rising sea levels and the gradual erosion of his village, he ran back and forth – lost in this moment.
Fifty paces away on the edge of what was once a green playing field, the people of Vunisavisavi turned their faces upwards as – with representatives of Fiji’s three oldest churches – they chased answers.
Who will stop the waves? Where can we go? Is this the end?
Rising sea levels and salt water intrusion caused by climate change have taken this coastal settlement to the brink.
Two centuries ago this was the seat of power of a chief who controlled people, land and the sea through alliances and conquests. It is said that the Cakaudrove people would not wait for their enemies to land. Instead, they would put out in their canoes and attack the enemy at sea – their favoured battleground.
That same sea – once a sign of their dominance – is now a weapon of destruction in nature’s deadly arsenal. And as guardians of this sacred site, the people of Vunisavisavi face a final battle.
In this epic struggle they have been joined by the Anglican, Methodist and Roman Catholic churches, who sent a delegation to listen to the people and see first-hand their situation.
Methodist Church in Fiji General Secretary, Reverend Dr Semisi Turagavou, was deeply concerned with what he saw.
“We must do more to help our people and the church cannot remain silent or blind in the face of climate change,’’ Turagavou said.
“Our people are suffering, they have questions, they have physical and psychological needs as their lives are impacted by climate.
“The church must speak out about what’s happening and at the same time preach about climate change. If the church does not address this issue from the pulpit, it must share the responsibility for what happens to our people.’’
More than 36% of Fiji’s 900,000 population identify as Methodists in a country which claims to be 64% Christian.
Turagavou admits that most Christian churches in Fiji concentrate on preaching salvation and eternal life. He believes that there is a need for a drastic shift in focus.
“Salvation is important, but when people have no food, if they are homeless, or their minds are on the future safety of their families, it’s not possible for them to worship meaningfully,’’ Turagavou said.
“The environment and our responsibility towards caring for God’s creation – plants, animals and humans – is something I would like to see become part of the church activities.
“We must educate people about the environment, develop theology which can be preached and also help communities like Vunisavisavi which are on the front line.’’
Turagavou is in line to eventually become president of Fiji’s largest Christian denomination. With that role will come enormous power and influence to preach a message about care for creation.
The Pacific Conference of Churches organised the visit to Vunisavisavi to draw the attention of Christian leaders to the plight of the people.
It is a unique situation because of what the community believes is their sacred duty to protect the site for their traditional overlord. There is a spiritual aspect to climate change and relocation which is being put to the test at Vunisavisavi.
Former teacher and diplomat, Ben Salacakau, works for the Curia – headquarters of the Roman Catholic church in Suva, but his ancestral home is one of those under threat.
Salacakau said officials and experts had visited Vunisavisavi with preconceived ideas and little appreciation of identity, culture and the spiritual connection between the people and the land.
“If this site is abandoned, the very identity of the chiefs and people of Cakaudrove would be lost,’’ Salacakau said.
“We estimate that there is enough time left for us to live in the house and not need to relocate. If relocation becomes unavoidable, then it will be the concern of the future generation.”
Despite the knowledge and wisdom about plants, the seasons and the sea, nothing has prepared the people of Vunisavisavi for this clear and present danger – climate change.
Archbishop Peter Loy Chong – head of Fiji’s 80,000 Catholic population – knows of the suffering at Vunisavisavi. Most of the community is Catholic and their chief, Ratu Naiqama Lalabalavu, converted to the faith.
“Our faith teaches us to transform our suffering and anguish into prayer, into pleas that God may hear the cry of my people,’’ Chong said.
“It’s not not simply a matter of something external, of economy or politics. It’s a question of respect for God and his creation and of alleviating the pain of those who suffer.’’
After the churches visited Vunisavisavi, it was evident to civil society observers that the situation was in effect a stalemate – the people were unwilling to break their vow to the chief; without an order from Tui Cakau, the status quo would remain; the people would never seek such an order.
In an interview last year, Archbishop Chong, not in reference to Vunisavisavi, said: “There needs to be a conversion of hearts. Ecological conversion doesn’t happen in isolation, the conversion also has to be something internal in the heart of each individual. There has to be a drawing closer to God, respect for his creation, a spirit of solidarity and generosity towards all those who, even if they are far away geographically, are still our brothers and are suffering terribly. My people are weeping; who will dry their tears?’’
Sirino Rakabi of the Catholic charity arm, Caritas, said the time had come for the church to build bridges between communities and force difficult conversations.
“It’s time for the church to bring the people and the chiefs together,’’ Rakabi said.
“Prayer is good, but practical solutions and actions are equally important.’’
For Vunisavisavi, perhaps it is time to stop looking up and instead look around for solutions which will secure a safe home for their children, who play on a diminishing shoreline.
