Coconut oil is a staple in most Pacific households. It perfumes the air at many traditional events. We massage our babies with it, use it to treat hands roughened by sea, salt and soil (and a bowl too many of kava), comb it through our children’s hair and cook with it.
It is also the fuel for a burgeoning number of Pacific beauty brands.
The global beauty industry is worth US$532 billion according to Forbes, and is expected to exceed $800 billion by 2025, following a dip due to COVID and the temporarily-altered lifestyles of many of its customers.
In 2019, the Asia-Pacific region made up 41% of the global cosmetic market, followed by the United States at 24%. Pre-COVID, 14% of the industry’s total revenue was made from online channels.
The industry is also at the forefront of many changes in global retail, marketing and business models; the drive to e-commerce, the importance of social media, influencers and peer-to-peer marketing for Millennial and young consumers, demand for products with good eco-credentials, and the emergence of young entrepreneurs from communities traditionally under-represented in the sector.
In the Pacific Islands region, the beauty sector is synonymous with coconut oil and a few large brands have built their businesses on this Pacific staple. – the Pure Fiji juggernaut, the Body Shop (now owned by Brazilian company Natura & Co) which sources key products from Samoa, and legacy brand, Parfumerie Tiki in Papeete, Tahiti.
Samoa began exporting coconut oil to the Body Shop in 2009 through a partnership with Women in Business Development Inc (WIBDI) which ensures a secure market for farmers. French Polynesia’s Parfumerie Tiki is a family business founded in 1942 which pioneered monoi (coconut oil) exports and now produces a diverse line of beauty products and perfumes.
Gaetane and Andree Austin established privately-owned Suva based Pure Fiji in 1996, starting with soaps. They now also produce oils and creams, scrubs and a wide range of other products. From an original team of four, Pure Fiji was employing some 180 people from rural communities pre-COVID. It has multiple online stores customised for its specific international markets and in ‘normal’ times, strong sales to tourists and hotels and resorts.
But in recent years there has been an explosion of other Pacific brands in the market. While many of them are built on coconut oil, they are also looking to other traditional ingredients. Others have pivoted over the last 18 months to add products such as hand sanitiser to their ranges.
Investment Fiji is promoting the health and cosmetics category through a series of virtual trade exhibitions this year. The Fiji-USA Trade Expo currently underway showcases 11 companies of varying size.
“There is huge potential for health and beauty products or cosmetics and skincare range to explore for Fiji,” says Investment Fiji’s Acting CEO, Kamal Chetty. “Our team of advisors have facilitated these companies with a range of business facilitation – right from approvals, requirements to packaging and hosted webinar and information sessions to promote this sector.”
Chetty believes there is significant room for growth: “Fiji has huge opportunities for value-added niche products in the health and cosmetics sector with international demand for products made from noni, coconuts, turmeric and ginger.”
In Fiji, the opportunities provided by tourism are also important, as spa services are an integral to the offerings of many high-end hotels and resorts. Destination weddings also drive demand.
“Fiji has had great success with its sales of virgin coconut oil and other beauty products due to the appreciation of natural skincare and cosmetic products. With the anticipated resurgence of tourism, there is potential entry points for organic products to be marketed at top resorts and hotel chains in Fiji,” Kamal says.
A sample pack of Pacific beauty brands
Loaloa Naturals is a 100% locally owned Fijian company creating natural, vegan and cruelty free based skin and hair care products. Currently distributed domestically, it is looking for international markets.
Kula Palms Fiji is a Natural Skin Care business, established in 2016 by fifth generation copra planters in Savusavu. They were the first producers of activated charcoal soaps in Fiji and the first to commercialise the herbal Rewa oil back in 2016. Kula Palms exports on a small scale to New Zealand, Australia and the United Kingdom.
Island Rose Dream was established by Rose Akauola-Fine in 2014. The range includes soaps, scrubs and oils, using coconut oil procured in partnership with the Tongan National Youth Congress and plants harvested by women in several villages.
Rito Cook Islands skincare is produced in Tikioki village, Rarotonga by Susan Tuoro and her husband Robert, and uses wild-harvested nuts, exotic flowers, sea algae and fruit extracts.
TeTika is a bioactive Cook Islands oil range developed through research into traditional Cook Islands regenerative practices. The company operated by CIMTECH (Cook Islands Medical Technology), founded by Dr. Graham Matheson, an Australian-based Cook Islands doctor.
Mailelani is a family company based in Samoa that includes a range for babies.
Love Pacific is a partnership between Samoan retailer Janet’s and Women in Business Development (WIBDI) and includes perfumed oils and soaps.
Lynu Summer’s Lewa collection is makeup formulated for Pacific skin tones. Launched in 2018, it now sells to 21 countries.
The “veteran, minority, and woman-owned” small-business Charcoal Guam launched its bath and beauty line in August 2019. Its products are currently available online. Founders Terry and Chikako Cutshaw hope to be in retail outlets as soon as borders reopen and COVID-related restrictions fully lift.
Volcanic Earth is a Vanuatu brand with a wide range of natural products and markets in Europe, Australia, New Zealand, North America and Dubai. The range includes shampoo bars and men’s products.
