The sun climbs gently into the sky as the ocean-going canoe Uto Ni Yalo ploughs towards Vava’u through a surging swell.
About 200 metres to the stern, the first rays of the sun glint off the back of a large, black surface and a huge plume of spray bursts into the air.
Kakala Tevi turns from her place at the oar of the Uto. Herface breaks into a smile and a gasp of wonderment escapes her lips, to be followed by excited shrieks as she sees the whale which has tailed the canoe . . .
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